




I was raised outside of a small town in
As much as
I loved the food at home growing up, I loved our infrequent excursions out to
dinner even more. I don’t remember too many of the restaurants where we dined,
but I know there was a lot of pizza, some Mexican, and even some occasional
Chinese. I wonder what I would think if I could go back to 1978, packing with
me the years of culinary experience I now have, and eat at those same restaurants
- I suspect I would be sorely disappointed. For one thing, my parents probably
didn’t waste their money taking me and my sisters to nicer restaurants that we
couldn’t appreciate. For another, I honestly believe food, in general, has come
a long way since the late 70’s. It’s not my intent here to diss
I thought
about my rural past the other day when David

Then, after
our afternoon loop through the mountains, we hit Darrington. Or, rather,
Darrington hit us. This was not our first time in Darrington. A few years ago,
on our way back to
So, what’s
my verdict on small-town food? Is small-town food my $1.25 fresh-out-of-the-garden
tomatoes, or is it a humorously evil side of frozen vegetables? What strikes me
is that here, in the
I guess the
(painfully obvious) answer is that small-town food is as good and as bad as
anything you can find in the
I went to the symphony the other night. I have a symphony buddy, my friend S. We go about once a year, and the other night we watched opening night of Mozart’s Requiem. It was the second time we had seen it (he says first, but he has a lousy memory). Every time I go to the symphony, I get started thinking about food. Any time the music slows, and I snap out of my otherworldly reverie, I want to conjure comparisons of what I am hearing with food. Why at the symphony? Must be something to do with the complexity of the music. One of the few things in the world that can match the complexity and transcendence of a great work of classical music is a well-thought-out and well-prepared meal. Sometimes I get these flashes of analogy for a single dish: Beethoven’s Ode to Joy simply screamed at me that I was at that very moment eating bastilla. Sometimes the inspirations come as impressions of an entire meal: Bach’s Eroica took me back to the simple strong flavors of a particular brunch my gifted friend A made for me once.
Mozart’s
Requiem is my favorite work of classical music in the entire world. I have it
on CD of course. I watch the movie Amadeus a couple of times a year. And now, I
have seen it performed twice in person. That night, when I wasn’t flung into
the depths of rapture, I started to think of what food the Requiem could be. (Wouldn’t
it be a blast to return to the 18th century and ask: Mr. Mozart, if
you could be a food, what would it be?) I’ve never had a seven-course tasting
menu before; otherwise I would have been tempted to make that comparison. A
meal that long could only be compared to a lengthy work of music. Actually, the
Requiem doesn’t last as long as a seven-course tasting menu probably would.
Still, I remembered a five-course meal that I prepared that might parallel the
Requiem. Yeah, it’s a bit of hubris to compare my work to that of one of the
world’s all-time geniuses. I doubt my food has ever brought anyone to tears.
This one meal, however, a Moroccan feast, was elaborate and memorable. My
flavors were spot-on, there were a wondrous grab-bag of textures, and the meal
built, crescendoed, and subsided.
Going to the symphony gets me thinking about another subject as well: the inadequacy of words. More to the point, the inadequacy of my words. Music is a language – you don’t need to be a musician to understand that. Besides the music itself, there is a whole vocabulary you need to even talk about music intelligently. I impressed myself that I was able to use the word “crescendoed” in a sentence. I don’t understand that vocabulary; I’m content being a music lover, rather than a music aficionado. The fact that my vocabulary regarding food seems insufficient is more troubling to me. How do you write about food and make the words fresh every time? I think that is the big thing for food writers. I don’t mind using music as a reference in this blog post – that’s what this post is all about. But if I were to continually use it s an analogy, not only would my writing become tired, it would also be a little pretentious.
There’s a whole different vocabulary surrounding the cooking of food than there is surrounding the description of food. If I were to write about 9-pans and kicking some ass on my mis, well, nonprofessionals reading my writing would be lost and turned off. To describe food, to describe it in a vibrant and original manner, you really need a large miscellanea of adjectives and adverbs. A thesaurus helps; a vivid imagination is a better tool. I tend to describe food as “rockin’ good”. After the tenth repetition, the phrase becomes trite, and frankly, embarrassing for a 43 year-old to be using it at all. If you aren’t practiced and adept at the description of food, your words can become pretty tired pretty quickly.
I wish I was better at describing food. Nevertheless, you have read down to the end of my post. Maybe you have read my other posts. I’m not good yet, but hopefully I have made a good start.
This post is going to chronicle a typical day in my life as a personal chef. It is a long post – you may want to bear with me if you have ever wanted, or thought about hiring, a personal chef. If not, go on, read my other posts instead.
Friday 9/21,
I e-mailed P/E a suggested menu a week ahead of time. E will
often leave my suggested menus intact, but for today she changed one menu item:
she changed Smoked Salmon and Egg Salad to
Turkey Lasagna with Spaghetti Squash.
The Turkey Lasagna is one of E’s
favorite dishes, and as Fall quickly approaches here in
You might think that I would get 100% of my produce at Madison Market as well (for non-Seattleites, you should know that it is a natural foods co-op), but Brian at Safeway does a really nice job with the produce department over there. There is a new woman at Madison Market in charge of produce (sorry, I forgot your name), and she does a much better job than any of her predecessors in stocking her department. My heart leaped the day I saw here sending back several cases of fruit to her supplier when it didn’t meet her standards. So, how do I decide which produce items to buy where? It’s usually several different factors – my food budget, how particular items look that morning at Madison Market, whether or not I want to buy organic that day. If I am buying produce items that are in season, I know that I can buy quality at either store, but if I am buying non-seasonal produce, the decision is more complex.
I don’t want to bore you with all the prep I do to get the food done. I think the food today turns out pretty well. The lasagna and quinoa are items that I do all the time. They are also items that I created in the past, so I had no need to bring recipes with me. The soup is one that I have done often in the past, but it has been a few years since I have made it. The shrimp dish and the adobo are new items for P/E. They are very open to having me make them new and untried things, as long as they are low-fat. I normally pan-fry the shrimp cakes, but today I try oven-frying them to reduce their fat content. The oven-frying takes longer than I think it will, but it still turns out fine. In the past when I have made Chicken Adobo for other clients, I was not really happy with the dish. These other clients said that they liked it, but I wanted to try a new recipe. So, today, I tried a recipe out of a Philippine cookbook that I checked out from the library. It seems to have turned out well; I liked the addition of fresh pineapple and tomatoes. If P/E end up not liking it, they will hopefully tell me so. They are pretty good at giving me feedback, positive and negative, which is another reason why they are favored clients.
It is
Top Chef is
like…..crack. No, Bravo isn’t selling it in $20 baggies at the corner of
Broadway and Jefferson. Andy Cohen often aims for the lowest common
denominator, but I don’t think he has quite mined those depths yet. Nevertheless,
Top Chef is highly addictive, and Bravo knows it. They stretch out what should
be a two-month show over four months or more. They supply you with your weekly
hit for a few weeks, then throw in some sham white nugget for the off weeks.
When you start to feel desperate, no worries – they repeat past episodes ad
infinitum until the next new episode. When a season does finally conclude, you
are forced to go on inferior Food Network methadone until the next exciting
season begins. It seems as though the seasons are coming more quickly as well –
didn’t
Top Chef is like…..an average state college student. If, as a Reality Show Professor, I were to give a grade out to Padma, Tom, and Ted/Gail, it would have to be a B. In other words, I think the judges get it right the majority of the time. Marcel was a genius in the kitchen, but it was Ilan’s food throughout Season 2 that I really wanted to eat. The judges are aware that Top Chef is not Top Cook, and Marcel just was not ready to become a True Chef – in most of the kitchens I have ever worked in, someone like Marcel would get his ass kicked after shift on the first night. Of course, the one who truly demonstrated the virtues of True Chef in Season 2 was Sam, not Ilan, so the judges blew it there. At least from my living room, Sam’s food looked just as good as Marcel’s and Ilan’s food in the semi-finals. If it wasn’t, as the judges have insisted, then they made the right decision, as they have said since the beginning that eliminations are not based upon cumulative season-long judgment, but upon that same night’s performance. (To get a glimpse into the rationale of the judges, read their blogs at the Bravo website. Especially important now that Anthony Bourdain is blogging there). It was a single night’s poor performance that doomed Tre in this season. Tre was possibly the most talented and well-rounded of the Season 3 contestants, but the judges correctly sent him packing for a remarkably bad off-night. Even when I think the judges get something wrong, nothing has been so off-base that I grow apoplectic. I guess I’m not like other Top Chef bloggers.
Top Chef is like…..a box of chocolates. No, my Momma didn’t tell me that. From week to week, you never know what you’re gonna get. Each week, a different contestant seems to lose something. Important things, too, like their integrity, the respect of their peers, their composure, their sanity, their understanding of kitchen safety. Why should we wonder that such drama happens on this show? These people are locked up away from the outside world, going weeks on little sleep, facing challenges that more than anything seem out-and-out cruel in their time constraints, with no outlets to release their frustrations other than each other and alcohol. The lucky ones, such as Micah, get out early, with their outlook on cooking and their life priorities reasonable straight. Why do the rest of them stick it out in such a boiling cauldron of stress? Oh yeah, probably the 100 grand and the title … of Top Chef.
Top Chef is like…..every other reality show. Particularly every other reality show on Bravo. I can’t be the only person who has noticed that Bravo has one format for their shows and plainly just plugs in discrete characters and discrete graphics to complement the discrete show titles. Maybe it’s just that the grating voice of the announcer makes it seem like I am continuously watching the same show on Bravo. Maybe it’s just that sometimes even the characters are the same (Tom, did you really need to go on Top Design?). Maybe Bravo saves on script writers by using the same equation over and over. A hip modern profession + drama + stressful situations to bring out the contestants’ worst character traits + tearful post-elimination vows to persevere = hit TV show??? I don’t know, I’m not a TV programmer. Still, I have to give Bravo credit - I do watch Top Chef faithfully and I am addicted.
Brian is my choice to win/to have already won Season 3. Every week, I go online during the show and cast my ten votes in their poll in order to win a dinner cooked for me and ten of my friends by the winner of Top Chef. I know I am going to win this dinner, and I know that Brian will be cooking it for me. Just one question, Brian – does my dinner come with a box-of-chocolates amuse with a $20-bag-of-crack on the side?